Reformulating a cosmetic product that is already on the market is a strategic decision that goes far beyond modifying an ingredient list. Unlike developing a product from scratch, there is a very specific starting point: a cosmetic that has already been validated by the market, has a sales track record, a defined consumer perception, and a technical and industrial structure that works—or at least has worked up to now.
For this reason, when a brand considers reformulation, the role of the cosmetic laboratory becomes essential. Not only as the technical executor of the change, but as a strategic advisor capable of assessing risks, anticipating impacts, and determining to what extent a modification is viable without compromising the product’s identity or profitability. From a cosmetic product development perspective, reformulation means analyzing the product as a complete system, where every adjustment has a cascading effect.
In today’s context—marked by constantly evolving regulations, increasingly informed consumers, and ongoing pressure to innovate—many brands are forced to revisit products that are still selling, but no longer fully align with the market or with the brand’s own evolution. However, not all reformulations respond to the same reasons, nor do they require the same level of intervention.
That is why the first step a laboratory takes when receiving a reformulation request is to understand why. Accurately identifying the reasons behind the change makes it possible to define the true scope of the project, avoid impulsive decisions, and lay the groundwork for a coherent technical process.
In this first section of the article, we analyze the most common reasons why a brand decides to reformulate a product it is already selling, and how the laboratory interprets each of these reasons before proposing any technical solution.
Common Reasons for Reformulating a Product on the Market
Although from the outside it may seem that all reformulations follow a similar logic, in practice there are very different scenarios. An experienced cosmetic laboratory knows that reformulating due to a legal obligation is not the same as reformulating for a strategic brand decision, and that each reason determines the type of analysis required and the possible solutions.
Below, we review the most common reasons that lead a brand to request a reformulation.
Regulatory Changes and Legal Compliance
One of the most frequent triggers for reformulation is adapting to current regulations. Cosmetic legislation is constantly evolving, and an ingredient that is permitted today may be restricted or banned tomorrow.
In these cases, reformulation is not optional—it is necessary in order to continue marketing the product.
From the laboratory’s perspective, these requests are handled with particular caution, as they often involve:
- Replacing key ingredients with legally compliant alternatives
- Adjusting maximum permitted concentrations
- Reviewing product claims
- Conducting new stability and compatibility tests
The challenge here is not only regulatory compliance, but maintaining the original product’s performance and sensorial profile as much as possible.
Evolution of Consumer Trends
Another very common reason is the gradual misalignment between the product and consumer expectations. Even if the cosmetic continues to sell, the brand may detect that its formula no longer reflects what the market demands.
Common examples include:
- The need to remove or reduce ingredients perceived as controversial
- The search for more natural, vegan, or environmentally friendly formulas
- Adaptation to new usage habits or skincare routines
- Improvements in sensorial experience (texture, absorption, skin feel)
From a cosmetic product development standpoint, this type of reformulation requires balance. Changing too much can alienate loyal consumers; changing too little may be insufficient to reposition the product.
The laboratory evaluates which aspects are truly critical to the consumer and which can be adjusted without affecting the product’s identity.
Technical Issues Detected After Market Launch
Not all problems are identified during the development phase. Many emerge once the product has been on the market for some time and has been exposed to real-world conditions of use, storage, and transport.
The most common issues include:
- Odor changes over time
- Phase separation or loss of stability
- Color variations
- Packaging incompatibilities
- Undesired reactions in specific climates or markets
When a brand requests a reformulation for this reason, the laboratory must act almost like a diagnostic team. Before proposing changes, it analyzes:
- Whether the issue originates in the formula or in the manufacturing process
- Whether it affects all batches or only specific ones
- Whether it is linked to raw materials, packaging, or external conditions
In these cases, reformulation is usually surgical, focused on correcting the root cause without altering the rest of the product.
Cost Optimization and Supply Chain Constraints
The current economic and logistical context has made cost optimization an increasingly common reason for reformulation.
Typical scenarios include:
- Rising prices of key raw materials
- Supply difficulties or discontinued suppliers
- Dependence on highly specific or poorly scalable ingredients
- The need to improve margins without increasing retail price
From the laboratory’s standpoint, this type of reformulation is approached with particular caution. Not all formulas allow substitutions without affecting the final result, and cost reduction does not always justify the technical or commercial risk.
The cosmetic laboratory evaluates whether viable functional alternatives exist and what impact the change would have on:
- Stability
- Efficacy
- Sensorial properties
- Consumer perception of quality
Strategic Brand Repositioning
Finally, many reformulations are linked to strategic brand decisions, rather than problems with the product itself.
Clear examples include:
- A change in target audience
- Expansion into new international markets
- A revision of brand messaging
- The update of an entire product range
In these cases, reformulation is part of a broader project and must be aligned with other decisions such as packaging, marketing, and pricing.
Here, the laboratory acts as a technical partner, helping translate brand strategy into coherent and viable formulation adjustments.
Why Correctly Identifying the Reason Is Critical
Before touching a single raw material, the laboratory must answer one fundamental question:
What problem is this reformulation really meant to solve?
Poorly defined motivations often lead to:
- Unnecessary reformulations
- Excessive changes that compromise the product
- Increased costs with no clear return
- Delays in production and market relaunch
By contrast, when the reason is clearly identified, the process becomes far more efficient and strategic.
Analysis of the Original Formula and Its Commercial Performance
Before proposing any changes, a cosmetic laboratory must fully understand the product as it exists today. Reformulating without this prior analysis means working blindly and assuming unnecessary risks. The original formula is not just a combination of ingredients—it is the result of technical, industrial, and commercial decisions that have allowed the product to reach the market and remain there.
This analysis is conducted from two complementary perspectives: technical and commercial. Both are equally important and must be interpreted together within the cosmetic product development process.
Technical Analysis of the Original Formula
The first step is to break down the formula to understand its structure and internal logic. The laboratory evaluates aspects such as:
- System type (emulsion, gel, solution, suspension, anhydrous, etc.)
- The real function of each ingredient
- Critical dependencies between raw materials
- Sensitivity of the system to process variations
At this stage, not all ingredients carry the same weight. The laboratory distinguishes between:
- Structural ingredients, essential for stability and product form
- Functional ingredients, responsible for cosmetic efficacy or benefit
- Accessory ingredients, which may offer adjustment margins without affecting the whole
This exercise helps identify which parts of the formula are untouchable and which allow some flexibility.
Stability History and Physicochemical Behavior
Another key aspect is analyzing the product’s stability history. The laboratory reviews:
- Results of previous stability tests
- Issues recorded in past batches
- Changes observed in the medium and long term
- Sensitivity to temperature, light, or humidity
This analysis is particularly relevant for products with a long market presence, as real-world behavior over time provides far more valuable insights than initial accelerated testing.
In many cases, reformulation is not about innovation, but about correcting weaknesses detected through actual product use.
Packaging Compatibility and Manufacturing Process
The formula does not exist in isolation—it is closely linked to packaging and manufacturing processes. For this reason, the cosmetic laboratory analyzes:
- Compatibility between the product and packaging materials
- Risk of migration, absorption, or chemical interaction
- Behavior during filling and storage
- Reproducibility at industrial scale
Some formulas perform well in the lab but present problems when produced repeatedly or at large scale. Identifying these issues is essential before introducing changes that could worsen them.
Functional Performance Analysis
From a cosmetic product development perspective, the laboratory also assesses whether the formula is properly optimized in terms of efficacy:
- Are the actives correctly delivered?
- Are concentrations aligned with the expected benefit?
- Are there redundant or underutilized ingredients?
This analysis can reveal improvement opportunities that do not necessarily require a deep reformulation, but rather strategic adjustments that enhance performance without altering the product’s identity.
Analysis of the Product’s Commercial Performance
Alongside the technical review, the laboratory analyzes the product’s commercial performance, as reformulating a top seller does not carry the same risks as reformulating a low-rotation product.
Typically reviewed data includes:
- Sales evolution over time
- Markets or channels where performance is strongest
- Complaints and returns
- Consumer reviews and post-sale feedback
A high-volume product with recurring complaints requires a different approach than one that has simply lost relevance against competitors.
The Importance of Sensorial Perception
Sensoriality is often one of the most delicate aspects of any reformulation. Texture, absorption, scent, and skin feel are part of the consumer experience and are directly linked to product loyalty.
The laboratory evaluates:
- Which sensorial attributes are critical to the product’s success
- Which could be modified without generating rejection
- Which changes would be perceived as a genuine improvement
Impact of Reformulation on Costs, Stability, and Production
Once the original formula has been analyzed, the next step is to assess the impact of reformulation across three fundamental axes: costs, stability, and production. Any modification, however small it may seem, can affect one or more of these factors.
An experienced cosmetic laboratory knows that a technically viable reformulation is not always viable from an industrial or economic standpoint.
Impact on Product Costs
One of the most common misconceptions is that reformulation always reduces costs. In reality, the financial impact can move in different directions:
- Replacement of costly ingredients with more efficient alternatives
- Cost increases due to more innovative raw materials
- Changes in suppliers or purchasing conditions
- Additional testing and validation requirements
The laboratory evaluates the total cost, not just raw material cost, including:
- Manufacturing costs
- Production losses
- Costs associated with additional testing
- Potential impact on retail price
Impact on Product Stability
Every change introduced into a formula creates a new balance. Even seemingly minor modifications can affect system stability.
For this reason, the laboratory evaluates:
- Risk of phase separation
- Changes in viscosity or texture over time
- Performance of the preservative system
- Sensitivity to external conditions
In many cases, reformulation requires repeating stability tests from scratch, which must be factored into project planning.
Impact on the Manufacturing Process
Reformulation can also directly affect industrial production. The laboratory analyzes whether changes involve:
- New temperature or agitation requirements
- Longer processing times
- Increased operational complexity
- The need to adapt machinery or protocols
A formula that looks “better” on paper may be less efficient in the plant if these factors are not considered.
Scalability and Product Continuity
Another critical point is scalability. The laboratory must ensure that the new formula can be manufactured consistently, repeatedly, and sustainably over time.
This involves evaluating:
- Dependence on critical raw materials
- Risk of supply disruptions
- Ease of maintaining batch-to-batch quality
Evaluating the Overall Balance
The true value of a cosmetic laboratory in a reformulation lies in its ability to evaluate the overall balance between:
- Product improvement
- Technical risk
- Economic impact
- Industrial feasibility
Not every improvement justifies a reformulation, and not every reformulation delivers a positive return. This analysis phase is therefore essential to decide whether the project should move forward, be adjusted, or be reconsidered entirely.
What Can Be Modified in a Reformulation Without Compromising the Product?
One of the most common questions a cosmetic laboratory receives when a brand considers reformulation is:
How far can the formula be changed without “breaking” the product?
The answer is never universal. It depends on the type of cosmetic, its positioning, its market history, and the reason driving the reformulation. However, certain elements generally offer greater flexibility, while others require extreme caution within the cosmetic product development process.
Adjustments to Secondary or Accessory Ingredients
Ingredients that do not perform a critical structural or functional role are often the first candidates for modification. These include, for example:
- Adjustments to fragrances or aromatic blends
- Modifications to non-essential sensorial agents
- Replacement of colorants or tone adjustments
- Changes to ingredients with secondary aesthetic functions
Such modifications allow the product to be updated or aligned with new trends without significantly affecting performance or stability. That said, even these changes must be carefully evaluated, as they can influence consumer perception more than expected.
Optimization of Concentrations (Without Removing Key Actives)
In many products, laboratories detect over- or under-utilized actives. In these cases, adjusting concentrations can be an effective way to improve formula balance.
Common examples include:
- Reducing actives that do not deliver proportional benefit
- Optimizing synergies between existing ingredients
- Improving bioavailability without adding new components
These adjustments often have a positive impact on both efficacy and costs when based on solid technical criteria.
Substitution of Ingredients with Functional Equivalents
When reformulation is driven by regulation, cost, or supply issues, the laboratory may propose alternative ingredients with equivalent functionality.
This process involves evaluating:
- Compatibility with the rest of the formula
- Impact on stability and sensoriality
- Supplier availability and reliability
- Consumer perception of the change
Not all ingredients allow direct substitution, and here the experience of the cosmetic laboratory is critical to avoid solutions that appear valid but create medium-term issues.
Adjustments to the Preservative System (With Special Caution)
The preservative system is one of the most sensitive elements of any formula. It can be modified, but only under strict safety and stability criteria.
The laboratory assesses:
- Real antimicrobial efficacy
- Compatibility with other ingredients
- Impact on pH and overall stability
- Regulatory compliance in target markets
These changes typically require additional testing and should never be treated as simple substitutions.
What Should Not Be Changed Lightly
Just as important as knowing what can be changed is identifying what should not be altered without clear justification:
- The product’s base system (emulsion type or structure)
- Actives that define the primary benefit
- Key sensorial attributes tied to consumer loyalty
- Critical, already-optimized manufacturing processes
Modifying these elements usually entails a deep reformulation, with elevated technical and commercial risks.
When a Reformulation Is Viable… and When It Is Not
Not every reformulation request should become a project. Part of the value a cosmetic laboratory provides is knowing when to say “no” if risks outweigh benefits.
Assessing the real viability of a reformulation requires evaluating multiple factors together.
Indicators That a Reformulation Is Viable
In general, a reformulation tends to be viable when several of the following conditions are met:
- The product has a clear commercial trajectory
- The problem to be solved is well defined
- Required changes are limited and controllable
- There is technical margin within the original formula
- Cost and production impact is manageable
In such cases, reformulation serves as a tool to extend product life, improve competitiveness, or adapt to new market demands.
Warning Signs That Call for Reconsideration
Conversely, laboratories often advise caution—or even abandoning the reformulation—when signs such as these appear:
- The product has multiple structural issues
- Too many elements are being changed at once
- Reformulation costs approach those of a new development
- The product has lost commercial relevance
- The objective of the change is unclear
In these cases, forcing a reformulation can create more problems than it solves.
Reformulating vs. Developing a New Product
One of the most important strategic decisions is choosing between reformulating or starting from scratch. Although reformulation is often perceived as the “easier” option, it is not always the most efficient.
The laboratory helps the brand compare:
- Development timelines
- Total costs
- Technical risks
- Creative flexibility
- Differentiation potential
In many cases, developing a new product inspired by the original proves more coherent than trying to adapt a formula that no longer meets current needs.
The Laboratory’s Role as a Strategic Partner
Beyond technical execution, the cosmetic laboratory acts as a strategic partner that brings a global perspective to the project. Its role is not just to implement changes, but to help brands make informed decisions.
This involves:
- Evaluating short-, medium-, and long-term scenarios
- Anticipating industrial and commercial impacts
- Prioritizing realistic solutions over impractical ideas
- Supporting the brand throughout the entire process
Conclusion: Reformulate with Purpose, Not by Inertia
Reformulating a cosmetic product already on the market is a powerful but complex tool. When done correctly, it allows products to be updated, optimized, and kept commercially relevant. When poorly managed, it can compromise stability, profitability, and consumer trust.
That is why, before modifying a formula, it is essential to rely on the rigorous analysis of a cosmetic laboratory with experience in cosmetic product development, capable of evaluating not only technical feasibility, but also real impact on costs, production, and the market.
Reformulation is not about changing for the sake of change. It is about making strategic decisions based on data, experience, and a holistic view of the product and the brand.
